Best climbing quad anchor Super strong (would you believe 40 kN?!) If you know that the direction of pull will change throughout the climb, strive to create a self-equalizing anchor. Jason: I really liked your blog on fixed point anchors. 90 degrees between "tripod legs" absolute maximum. Quads most often utilize two bomber anchor points and a pair of limiter knots to construct a self-equalizing masterpoint. The American Alpine Institute offers rock climbing programs for people of all skill levels in Washington, Cal Apr 7, 2021 · The quad anchor, typically tied with a 180 cm Dyneema sling, is an increasingly popular choice for bolted anchors or ice climbing. This mnemonic trick helps you analyze the quality of your anchor. A quad anchor set up to belay up your partner on a standard two-bolt anchor. Multipitch bolted anchors: Usually a quad with non lockers on the bolts. if it is, you did something else very wrong. 1. A Bastion of Europe’s Best The quad is an awesome load distributive anchor. Sep 30, 2019 · Use a quad anchor, and put two opposite and opposed carabiners on each pair of the quad strands. I think I like quad anch Jul 14, 2023 · A solid anchor is the cornerstone of your climbing system. Anchors built with locker draws, a quad built with a sling, and an equalized 120cm runner a Setting up a top rope anchor is the easiest way to get in a ton of climbing outdoors without having to lead routes from the ground up. If the climber falls, a tight belay means that the fall will be kept to a minimum – often only a small amount of rope stretch. See below. The two most popular techniques for doing this are the quad and the traditional overhand-knot anchor. Therefor, if any of the strands in the anchor rope are cut, the entire anchor will fail. On the left you can see the carabiner can fit perpendicular to the anchor as it can turn freely based on it’s narrow body. Dec 1, 2023 · Two-Legged Quad Anchor. Your quad anchor could be a large length of cord (usually 7mm) tied in a big loop cordelette style, or the new school “mini quad” typically made with a 180 cm runner, as we cover in this tip here . Oct 29, 2023 · ok, i know this topic has been done to death but i just need simple answers. This was built from a 120cm, or double length, Dyneema runner with two overhand knots that became welded and were left in place for the life of the sling. No amount of rigging trickery can make a weak placement stronger. This makes the bottom gates opposite and opposed and also mostly keeps the bottom gates from potentially messing with each other. For more common trad anchors or multi-pitch climbing, 20–25 feet of 7mm cordalette is pretty common. You can read more about the construction and potential uses of… 2 quickdraws are fine as a very short term anchor, like if you are rapping a multipitch or flying up an easy sport climb and swapping leads. Rule #1 BACK TO TOP. Step By Step Guide To Set Up Top Rope Anchors With The Quad. lap dog named Lizzie. if you are climbing a trad route then the norm (at least in the UK) is: a single screw-gate on each piece of gear, equalised either with a long sling passed through each piece and knotted (overhand) to form a master point. This anchor is not redundant. If the bolts are set back on a ledge, or situated in a place which causes the rope to rub over an edge, you should extend the anchor and pad the edge. Fully redundant. Best Situation To Use The Quad Anchor To equalize two bomber anchor points such as a two-bolt anchor. I have a 6mm cordalette that I leave tied as a quad anchor. Our Lead Climbing Instructor, Ooan, explains both traditional Quad I'll go over one method of setting up a top-rope anchor for climbing outside, specifically the Quad Anchor. While it is the least secure, it likely won’t allow the rope to come out especially if you do not climb above the anchor when cleaning but still does not have the added This video shows how to build a quad anchor and all the different details of when to use it and how it can be modified. I have done many normal anchors, some anchors to threes, but never before with trad gear. What’s cool about the quad? Good load distribution. I'd still use static materials for the anchor, but I would keep in your comfort zone. This maintains a lower force on each piece, therefore decreasing the likelihood of anchor point failure. Dec 30, 2015 · Tying a couple of 120 cm 18mm nylon runners into a quad would seem to be about the strongest way to have a perfectly equalized, minimally extending toprope anchor without having to do anything other than clip it in on arrival. For gear anchors, the quad will be tricky as you usually have 3 pieces in your anchor (meaning you have to tie two pieces of protection together to end up with two clip-in points for your quad). Oct 13, 2021 · Me and a buddy single pitch sport climbing: 2 quickdraws on the anchor. It consists of four anchor points, four locking carabiners, and two slings, which automatically adjust the load distribution as the direction of pull changes. To avoid spreading a dangerous misconception, I will talk about ‘load distribution’ and not ‘equalisation’. You can use opposing quick draws or sliding-x with a locker at the mastermind if it's a quick follow on single pitch. Flip the rope onto their safety. If necessary keep all pieces of gear in the anchor for the belay. The quad anchor is a great option at the top of a sport climb where you have two side-by-side bolts. IMO having a permanent cordelette quad is as important to a rack as a set of cams. org : Climbing, hiking, mountaineering. How long should the cordelette be, and is there a "best" diameter? I have seen anywhere from 14ft to 30ft for length and that a minimum diameter is around 5. Dec 18, 2014 · Julie Ellison started climbing in Alabama more than a decade ago and is now living out her dream of van life with her pup, a 60-lb. 4 things to consider: Is your anchor - Strong, Solid, Secure and Redundant. I only set quickdraws on the anchor if I'm going to lower and someone else is going to lead. The rope you're climbing on should be doing the stretching, a moving masterpoint under weight can allow strands of your anchor legs to cut against the rock. Routes with two-bolt belays: Since the quad anchor system helps equalize weight between two anchor points, climbers in sport climbing or ice climbing can use it when there are two reliable, built-in bolt anchors or ice screws that they can use as a top rope. Static materials in anchors is super standard. You may need to make an anchor further back from the cliff edge and then be put on belay while you set up the top-rope anchor. Nov 18, 2016 · My best advice is to take notes from the clean-climbing pioneers like Doug Robinson and strive to minimize impact. Chart of results is at the end of the video👉 Learn Oct 24, 2018 · If you’re using two gear placements close together, like a bolted sport anchor, your cordelette in normal configuration will probably be too long, resulting in a master point that hangs too low. Generally, anchors with a bigger surface area are stronger. CAMP USA 11mm Express Dyneema Sling. 5mm. Jul 14, 2023 · Redundant—If I’m seeing this correctly, this anchor was built with a tied loop of rope folded in half many times. Sep 1, 2023 · The best climbing sling due to its great handle and low weight and width: Best for Building Anchors. This simple setup meets SERENE, can change directionality, arms can be used to personally anchor i Moved Permanently. At least 3 but 5 is better locking biners. When I build a quad, I often use two bolts for anchor points, a quad length (240cm) sewn sling, two non-lockers for the legs, and lockers for the master point. $10. 5m for this). Your second comes up, have them clip into a piece or two. Illustrationen: Georg Sojer. Nov 15, 2021 · Unknown said. A quad totally shines in this application, the multi pitch with bolted anchors. 2 large lockers for cloving in and belaying. Jan 14, 2025 · For top rope climbing, it's a generally accepted standard in the guiding and teaching world to use locking carabiners on the anchor and master point. Instant top rope anchor. The legs of a sling clipped to anchor points above, with the masterpoint locking carabiner. For a more long term anchor you want locking biners and multiple points for tieing people in, hanging gear/rope, and general versatility. Feb 16, 2019 · I use 'mini-quads' to go off of 2-bolt anchors when I'm sport climbing or for the rare bolted trad anchor on slabby multi-pitch routes. " Be careful when walking around the top of a crag un-roped. A properly set-up quad anchor conforms to these essential principles. A Quad, basically, is a pre-built system of some cord and a few biners that will help you address many of the points mentioned above in a timely manner. Nov 4, 2022 · Working on building my first TR quad anchor and deliberating about what carabiners to use. The document has moved here. January 2013; Climb Gear; Hi Steph, I’ve been looking to upgrade my cordalette to something a little lighter (always been instructed to use 7mm cord but have always hated the weight and bulk) and am quite confused. While there's nothing inherently wrong with this, it is big and bulky. Quad Anchor und doppelt abgebundene Ausgleichsverankerung. For a gear anchor with anything less then ideal placements I'd want a third piece in at a minimum. This is especially useful when equalizing marginal pieces of lead protection. Top Rope Anchors. Now, ten years later, it has really started to gain widespread popularity for the simplified way it can create ERNEST* anchors, especially when building anchors on two… I have been using the "sliding X" and "equalette" anchor systems but am looking to invest in a cordelette to build a quad anchor with for extended periods of top roping. Double up the loop so that you get 4 strands of rope. (if you are only TRing pre bolted sport lines, forget it. Check out the “Joshua Tree N” style anchor which incorporates a tether—I’m a fan. In this video we talk about the less common, but still very useful Quad anchor setup. Boom. We know that the core principles in all anchor constructions have been consistently applied in climbing applications. It provides easy clipping at the top and I usually choose this for when all climbers will be leading the climb. An ice axe can work well in hard snow, but will not provide sufficient surface area for a secure anchor in soft, unconsolidated snow. Having separate rope and anchor systems can also go a long way to declutter belays. Agreed, in my opinion the best approach is to learn a little from a book (like the climbing anchors classic) and then go with a guide to help cement the practical knowledge. A buddy of mine was climbing in Yosemite somewhat recently and said Alex Honnold and (i think) Jimmy Chin rapped down past them. Mar 18, 2020 · Method 4 - Quad anchor from 180 cm sling . (A good rule of thumb in anchor building is that the anchor master point should always be at waist level or higher, ideally around your chest. Then down climb back to anchor, tie in, and commence setting up to belay the second. Solid: Each component of the anchor must be completely solid. Those values are: Strength, Redundancy, Load Distribution, Simplicity, and Limited Extension. “As long as they’re modern bolts, a quad is probably the best bet,” says Whewell. As for a TR anchor, I'd worry with the use of non locking carabiners. Build the rest of the belay Flake rope properly over your safety line as you belay, small loops to big in this situation. After that, you can better evaluate a good mentor and a good mentor will be more likely to take you in. This gives you two clipping points at two different levels, which can be helpful in certain situations. Watch our free video tutorial on the 3 Piece Quad anchor, along with other instructional videos on anchor building, knot tying, and other rock climbing skills. Unlike the cordelette, it doesn’t require re-tying at each stance. build the best anchor available and then extend it out using your climbing rope (Martin Oct 15, 2021 · Whether you are into trad climbing or sport climbing, the quad is a solid anchor for a variety of climbs: . . Course top roping: Lockers everywhere, tie with masterpoint. After reading this article, I am seriously thinking about changing to the Quad anchor, - The quad will extend slightly should either anchor point fail. If the draws lay poorly against the rock, I'll attach the quad instead. Jun 28, 2016 · The masterpoint is the connection point of an anchor where all the values of the anchor are optimized and consolidated. You can use this anchor for basically anything now without having to worry each climb. Vorteil des „Quad Anchors“ ist zweifelsohne die von dir angesprochene Lastverteilung auf die beiden Fixpunkte – ähnlich wie bei der in Europa bekannten „doppelt abgebundenen Ausgleichsverankerung (oder Kräftedreieck)“. Try to understand the realistic, and not imagined, risks of your methods. Jun 30, 2023 · Climbing anchors, whether in trad or sport scenarios, are life or death. Also, try Oct 28, 2021 · Build a quad anchor on two bolts. rated strength is NOT even close to a direct measure of safety, since an anchor is a system and no single component should ever be subjected to the breaking strength of a cord. And, in this case, op can ditch 2 whole dogbones and non lockers, put two non lockers on the bolts (these can be lockers or just one can or niether) clip the sling (paying attention so the stitching is out of the way (I clove hitch the stitching to the Feb 9, 2020 · Top-rope climbing is one of the safest forms of climbing, where the rope runs from the belayer to the anchor at the top of the route, and then back down to the climber. Rule #1: Use bomber anchor points*. Nov 24, 2020 · The quick draw anchor is the least secure of all the anchors. The big benefits of cordalette are that you can chop it up for v-threads, to leave behind on abseils and if you have a sufficient length make a sling longer than a 240cm (need > 5. You don't even need space on your harness for them--I clip them around the shoulder, biner to biner. Previously the editor of Climbing magazine, Julie thrives on creating high-quality, inspirational stories and photos for climbers of all disciplines. But if you aren't swinging leads or if something goes wrong, having to reconstruct the anchor before proceeding can be a hassle. Remove my rappel device from the rope (only relying on the PAS) Attach the rope to my belay loop with a overhand on a bight, to prevent dropping it. That way, if I’m hitting the crag and burning top rope laps or climbing with someone that does lead, I can simply put it on my rack and clip it to the anchor bolts. I generally do not like using the quad on anchors that We built a full quad anchor out of 6mm accessory cord that is only 6kn strong and we're getting 32kn. ) Dec 7, 2023 · To make a quad, you have several options of materials and length. Trad climbing to me is all about moving over gorgeous stretches of stone, leaving only a bit of chalk and boot rubber Dec 26, 2020 · Mike shows how to build a quad anchor with 7mm cordelette. Nov 2, 2017 · Originally introduced in the 2006 version of John Long's Climbing Anchors book the "Quad" took a few years to start being adapted by both guides and recreational climbers alike. Equalized: Rig the anchor so that the load is distributed as equally as possible between the individual anchor points. I don't find many multis with bolted anchors where I normally climb, but when I do, they are super quick. 2 super bomb proof anchors, 3 is best. Gates on the quick draws are facing away from each other, or outward. Jan 13, 2022 · 1) To construct a girth-hitch masterpoint, clip or thread cord or a sling through each anchor component and pull down on the rigging material to tension it, as you would when rigging a cordelette anchor. It’s one of the first skills you’ll need as you transition from the gym to the crag, and it’s a good one: Learn how to set up a top rope anchor, and the world is your climbing gym. Setting up Your Quad Anchor - The quad will extend slightly should either anchor point fail. The Quad allows you to equalize two or more pieces, creates two independent huge master points, is incredibly strong and is self-equalizing! There's really not much we don't love about it. His 1972 Chouinard Equipment catalog manifesto on clean climbing is just as relevant today as it was back then. Jul 11, 2016 · BoulderCharles wrote:The quad is great for bolted belays as it is fast, allows for some movement of the master point, and gives you more room in the master point. It is also Sep 6, 2024 · In 2017 I started calling a material efficient version of the Quad anchor a “Mini-Quad”. Quad anchors are mainly used for sp Aug 4, 2021 · The quad anchor is an increasingly popular choice for many climbers. This is specifically for climbing outside when there is a pair of bolts which are accessible by walking up to the top of the climb. single HMS on the master point to attach yourself to (clove hitch from your rope attached to your harness) and either belay off your rope loop Aug 28, 2021 · With a cordelette, quad anchors are solid, easy to construct, quick to set up, and easy to break down. If you're gonna be climbing the route for a while on TR then use a quad. Because it is relatively easy to untie knots that have been weighted on this sling, it is also a good choice for use in building equalized anchors. Nothing wrong with this setup. What I learned today. One additional point that I thought might be worth making is that this method is also a good choice for a crux just above the belay when there is a greater chance that the leader may take a fall on a sketchy series of moves with no pro available for 8 to 10 feet or more; also later in the pitch when there is a significant Watch our free video tutorial on the Quad Anchor, along with other instructional videos on anchor building, knot tying, and other rock climbing skills. Here's a variation, the offset quad. i’m relatively new to outdoor climbing & am wanting to build a quad anchor of my own pretty much just to set up top rope with, and a quad anchor because it’s what i’ve used so far climbing with others so i just understand how to make it the most. Agreed. rated strength is not the same concept as durability in an anchor, the most important aspect is not a single component's rated strength. I would have used threes, but didnt have any static rope with me this time. We dive into the key principles of anchoring for rock climbing, and debunk some of the myths and focuses that some climbers cling to without understand the true reality of climbing anchors. At the same time, the rope is more abrasion resistant. How to safely build top rope anchors for rock climbing on bolts. Due to its low weight and low profile, this is one of the best choices as a double-length sling for use while leading. ” You can learn more about how to build a quad anchor here and here. A nearby party was using a quad anchor and apparently, when Honnold saw the anchor, he pointed at it and said "that's a fucking circus. Feb 28, 2018 · Best Case Scenario. Clip 1 locking carabiner onto each of the 2 anchor points. Where i climb, 20–30m of 9–10mm static rope is common for building top rope anchors. (Photo: Derek DeBruin) Step 3 – option 1: Rig your anchor with a quad. ) The standard way of tying it, with a doubled 180 cm or 240 cm sling, works great, provided you have that gear with you. Minimal extension. This Climbing Technology Aerial Pro SG fits in hangers and chains and has room to spare. To make a quad anchor: Take your cordellete and double it up so you have four equal-length strands. Sep 1, 2008 · I read about these but I believe they are mainly recommended for routes with bolted, horizontal side by side anchors since it is pre-configured for two anchor points. Mar 3, 2025 · You can leave your quad rigged for a long day out. Super strong (would you believe 40 kN?!) I have only ever used dyneema for anchors, and have caught top rope falls using an atc in guide mode. Once you’ve placed your primary anchors, the next step is to combine them with a sling or cord. Mar 15, 2022 · Note that the quad will extend slightly should either side fail, making it best suited for routes with modern, two-bolt belays and/or ice routes when using two screws at a stance. 66. The original material, suggested by John Long in his book “Climbing Anchors”, was a cordelette. The Quad Anchor is a relatively new anchor and is fast becoming adopted by climbers everywhere. If you're looking for a do it all, super safe sport/top rope anchor, then go for the quad anchor. Try a Google search for “Mammut Contact” or “Petzl Pur’Anneau”. 8mm rope is a must for these anchors to get enough length and get the angle of anchor points smaller. Apr 10, 2018 · The Quad Anchor is my personal favorite rock climbing anchor! It is self-equalizing, easy to tie, can be tied ahead-of-time, and is very strong. Dec 16, 2019 · I am still quite new in the climbing world and have been trying to figure out the best way to set up a top rope anchor. (See a detailed article about the quad here. Whether you’re top-rope climbing or lead climbing, knowing how to build a solid anchor is absolutely critical to staying safe outdoors. $13. This is for a wide variety of TR anchors, set pro, tied off boulders or solid trees) I use an 80 foot piece from Nomad I got cheap cuz it's so short. You MIGHT run into odd scenarios where you can't use the quad just because of positioning or whatever. It's perfectly safe. (Yes, a 180 cm sling is a little hard to find. Moved Permanently. Be Precise Precision is everything with snow anchors. It is truly one of the most versatile slings in this review. Make sure the second knows how to safely clean your anchor and transition to the permanent anchor BEFORE they leave the ground. In this instance, a common anchor is the “quad” anchor. I've read and heard great things about webbing and the same for quad anchors but I can't find anything for making a quad with webbing. (Photo: Jay Philbrick Photography) Pro climber and guide Genevive Walker demonstrates how to build a quad anchor. This setup is only for 2 anchor points. Jun 7, 2024 · The quad anchor, first mentioned (I think) around 2006 by John Long in his book “Climbing Anchors”, was an attempt to have the Holy Grail in anchors. Very rarely have I made it work on a 3-piece trad anchor - by clipping one end of the quad into 2 pieces that are equalized on a sliding-x and the other end into my 3rd piece. On a multi-pitch, you may have to climb up a bit higher, or down-climb if you've just passed a suitable place. Without a solid and secure point (preferably more than one) in your anchor your best bet is to bail**. The main advantage of using a self-equalizing anchor is that it continues to distribute the load equally between the anchor pieces as the loading direction changes. Aug 18, 2019 · If you opt to use Dyneema to build your anchor, make sure there is no potential for slack in your system, and be sure to tie yourself to the anchor with the climbing rope to add some energy-absorbing elasticity. We all get to choose an acceptable level of risk. Simple to rig and extremely strong, this configuration is best used wit Mar 3, 2020 · 80 to 100 ft long. I realize there are lighter, less bulky options, but aside from that I don't see any drawbacks. -- The quad anchor, first mentioned (I think) around 2006 by John Long in his book “Climbing Anchors”, was an attempt to have the Holy Grail in anchors. Dec 1, 2020 · The quad anchor can be a great tool when you are climbing on bolted anchors where the bolts are generally good and you might need some movement in the direction the anchor could get pulled. Break down the anchor, your top piece becomes 1st piece of pro. “I wouldn’t say always, but it’s one of my favorite tools. After you've created your anchor, clip the rope to it, climb above your anchor and get in a solid full strength piece in good solid rock and clip your rope to it. The difference in set up time between a quad and 2quickdraws is negligible, and the quad is a better TR anchor. Pull the rope from the top anchor and pass it in the quad anchor (and tie a knot in the end) Untie the rope from my belay loop and make sure the mid point is at A climbing anchor is a system made up of individual anchor points that are linked together to create a master point that the rope and/or climbers clip into to be securely attached to the rock. Tie the accessory cord into a loop with a Double Fisherman’s Knot. This is a self-equalization anchor. This can shock-load the remaining piece(s). Learn how to set up a top rope anchor on two bolts with instruction from the American Mountain Guides Association Apr 12, 2019 · Best Applications. Mar 4, 2025 · Watch the clip to learn more about setting up Quad Anchors, a key skill for multi-pitch climbing. It also can be pre-tied making it an efficient tool. I find a 240 makes a nice tidy quad when using two piece anchors and is long enough for most applications using 3+ pieces. The phrase "good enough" should be reserved for alpine/aid/etc. The danger is using dyneema as a PAS, letting slack into the system (climbing up to or above the anchor) and then falling directly onto the sling. My question is: is it bad to leave it essentially permanently assembled in this Bobby shows his favorite ways to build a top rope anchor on 2 bolts. 72. You should always make the best anchor you can with what you have. Sep 19, 2018 · Two quickdraw sport climbing anchor with non-locking carabiners. depends what you are doing. For use in top-rope anchors, either type of material will work. If you can't find enough gear to make a secure anchor, you'll have to go somewhere else! Try a little further back or along the crag top. I’ve gotten down to the CAMP Photon Screw gates or DMM Phantom Screw gates for the bolts(not totally necessary to have Screw gates but gives some peace of mind) and then two DMM Phantom HMS for the rope end of the anchor. In this episode, Mike goes over how to use a quad anchor, setting up a top down belay, top roping with a quad, and the nuances of clipping into the anchor. See "Climbing Anchors" by John Long and Bob Gaines for details and alternatives Jan 30, 2013 · Cordelette for Climbing. Please note: This article is only to be used as reference. A better alternative in this case is to bury a rucksack or a ski. Efficient—This is perhaps the biggest failure of this anchor. We built a full anchor and broke it, over and over again on our Bolt Buster concrete slab and then again on our slack snap machine. However, those slings are unusual sizes, and can be hard to find. Mar 13, 2016 · I've never liked the 'Pre Equalized Anchor; AKA Cord-o-lette, instead opting for a version of the two-point self-equalizing, sliding X anchor backed up with a third independent anchor using sewn spectra slings. We’ll start with the quad as it offers better load distribution than the traditional Jul 6, 2014 · Knowing how to use the rope as an anchor is a key tool, especially if you're a numb nut like me and forget stuff in the car. Whether it's knots, direction of load Aug 16, 2021 · This anchor design can also be adapted to use premade quad anchor slings. You can make a quad anchor out of a 180 cm sling and keep the knots in it permanently tied. - Since the quad needs to be doubled up, it is difficult to equalize anchors where the placements are far apart. Call us today for more information on Climbing School by Stone Adventures. In a 3-piece quad, load distribution is closer to 25/25/50%, and in the case of pre-distributed anchors like an overhand-knot anchor, the majority of the load is usually put on just one component. Oct 1, 2023 · The quad anchor is a self-equalizing anchor system that offers redundancy and flexibility for a variety of climbing scenarios. I use a Mountain Tools Webolette to tie the rock protection or bolts together. Quick to set up and break down, no knots to untie. Quad anchor : SummitPost. May 31, 2021 · The Quad Anchor. Modern sewn slings are a better choice. cjzqr wniu ovstj lownxs jotwl rpzbg awanzfxm bwuaq rivtz gwux ecqpdr mfskcvt oeka eug iioehn